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2010.08.20 Ruff of Aquila rapax 1828
Renaissance literally means re-birth, a return to the civilizations of Greece and Rome. In fact, it was a transition from the medieval to the modern view of men and the world.
The colorful garments made from expensive materials, such as brocade, damask and velvet were richly patterned and lavishly decorated with ribbons, braids, trimmings, embroi-dery and lace.
Narrow shoulders, a small tight waist and full hips were the characteristic features of feminine silhouette. An innovation was the corset, separate from the skirt. The skirt had fullness over the abdomen, below the tight waist. The underskirt was of heavy contrasting fabric and color, either edged with a wide band of embroidery or band of velvet. Under that, several linen petticoats were worn. The sumptuous sleeves were tied on and were therefore interchangeable.
During late Renaissance, clothing of Spanish style were elegant and showy, and were also stiff, uncomfortable and often in somber color.
Masculine effect was broad to square silhouette. Men's wear consisted of a shirt, doublet and hose. It was artificial, with padded, large shoulders, sleeves and breeches. Voluminous linen shirt was worn next to the skin under the doublet. Collar and cuffs were decorated with smocking and Spanish embroidery. All articles of clothing were slashed and paned, revealing puffs of contrasting fabric and color.
The neckline waslow round, V-shape, or square during early Renaissance, and later was shirred up into a higher neckline finishing with a ruff. The ruff grew larger and stiffer and eventually became a separated item of clothing.
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